Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Coop

Bedroom Door

Recommended Posts

Construction will break ground shortly at my house for an addition that will include a much needed larger master bathroom. As part of the construction will mean my wife and I moving to another bedroom, she has asked that I not build the vanities as she is afraid that I will hold up construction ( and that might be valid) . I have received permission though to build the door leading into the bathroom. I didn’t tell her I have never built a door before. Dimensions will be 1.5” x 36” x 80” and will be built out of some walnut slabs that I’ve had drying for about 5 years.  If all goes right, it will look something like this.

https://www.doors4home.com/p-3917-c4-1.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrcfXkoja6gIVSr3ACh18pgBMEAsYAiABEgIna_D_BwE#mz-expanded-view-295661456540

Due to the weight, I’m thinking of making the glass lites larger than shown above. I did a full size pattern as seen below. The glass lites are the blue taped in area. Shown are with 5” stiles, 8” bottom rail, 5” top rail and 3.5” center rails. Any criticism will be taken as constructive and welcomed.

82A91C41-FC50-4653-BBE5-0345980CF306.thumb.jpeg.3af51744cad54f43af46d79ebf6d5243.jpeg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For a bathroom I'm not sure I would want that much glass in the door.  I would do glass for the top "panel" or maybe even the top 2.  If you are using frosted glass that would be a different story.  Also make sure you do 3 quality hinges.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The glass will be tempered and frosted and yeah, There will be 3 large quality hinges. I’m just wondering if the middle rails should be wider, maybe 5”, to make the look balance better? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It look proportional to me. Soild wood doors are heavy that all there is to that. If it is a bathroom door I would leave a bigger gap at the bottom along the sill. For two reason one expansion due to humidity from the shower. Also to help the the steam a place to escape to help the possibility of the mildew 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wanted the glass panels not quiet so tall. I re-drew (taped) it with the center rails the same as the stiles. Ideas?

5B278112-A24D-4D09-9786-7B7944F029B4.thumb.jpeg.88d86655810bb562d3bef916c682274f.jpeg

My next idea would be to use 5 glass panels with much smaller center rails.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here it is with five. Darn good thing this tape can be used over and over.

C1D3B7B2-20D9-4A54-86DA-B8B4EDA0BDA6.thumb.jpeg.7a4adcda2a4dd45251cd08c731b474b7.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Bryan. That has been the consensus among my family members as well. Hopefully, when finished, it will look better than the ply pattern. I’ll post the progress, ever so slight as it may be. I’m kinda wanting to do the frame, jamb and trim in walnut as well but I’m not sure how much walnut I’m willing to sacrifice if this goes south. I guess I can still say that? 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like the very first layout the best. Just looks the most natural proportions to me. I also don’t think you can go wrong with any of them.  I say use up the walnut! This is a project that you will be sitting an staring at 15 min a day for a long time to come. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’m thinking jointery. Loose tenons, as deep as my current bit will allow me to make the mortises. Cutting edge on the current router bit is 1 1/4”. I’ll test some scrap pieces tomorrow to see how deep I can make them. Someone suggested bridle joints which would be super strong but I’m not sure how I would cut the center out of the 80” long stiles? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

crazy idea here ... but to me, maybe the top and bottom glass, then combine with middle for a bigger one ??  or stick with 5 I like that look too 🙂

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BW, I taped it up and put it out there for her. She still likes the 5 panel best. Thanks though.

3514682A-ABC8-4DE9-8645-15BACFC82080.thumb.jpeg.3005ee57cdc20361b5a565c830b90d36.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Coop said:

BW, I taped it up and put it out there for her. She still likes the 5 panel best. Thanks though.

 

I like that one but, I think your boss has different ideas!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, Coop said:

She still likes the 5 panel best.

Then I think that is what you should do.😃

  • Like 1

“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It may just be me so no offense. Why not just do a traditional m&t joint instead of a loose tenon. Routing a mortise in end grain SUCKS at least it did when I tried it. It could have just been the bit I was using a sharp straight but. That would put the mortises in the long stiles an tenons on the shorter rails the TS or bandsaw could handle with ease.  I think the dowels will be a nice feature. 

On 7/24/2020 at 10:24 PM, Coop said:

I’m thinking jointery. Loose tenons, as deep as my current bit will allow me to make the mortises. Cutting edge on the current router bit is 1 1/4”. I’ll test some scrap pieces tomorrow to see how deep I can make them. Someone suggested bridle joints which would be super strong but I’m not sure how I would cut the center out of the 80” long stiles? 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Tmize said:

It may just be me so no offense. Why not just do a traditional m&t joint instead of a loose tenon. Routing a mortise in end grain SUCKS at least it did when I tried it. It could have just been the bit I was using a sharp straight but. That would put the mortises in the long stiles an tenons on the shorter rails the TS or bandsaw could handle with ease.  I think the dowels will be a nice feature. 

 

With the floating tenon and the router guide, once I set the guide up, I will reference the mortise off of the same side on each board and and all sides should line up pretty darn close. I practiced on some scrap yesterday with the only decent size straight cutting bit I have and both the end grain and long grain went well. I have ordered a 1/2” spiral up bit from Whiteside and expect it to go even better, fingers crossed! 

 

1 hour ago, Woodenskye (Bryan) said:

What if you just did 1 large glass panel?

That was an option but my thinking was the more rails I have, the less chance of racking.

I just watched a you tube video where the guy uses PC-7 epoxy. It is very thick (less runs on the squeeze out) and also has the advantage of a long no working time. Has anyone ever used this? My plan is to use the West System 105 resin and 206 hardener that I have.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd have no issues using the WS stuff..  That's what I have on hand and use for longer glue ups..

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got this today from Whiteside for the mortises. That one mean looking bit! 

DCAD5DF5-5A86-4B7C-BBEF-4D10198BA870.thumb.jpeg.8edc2449dda6bf9b84f5f24ea91bcc33.jpeg

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

It will be approx 6-8 weeks before the contractor will need the door. Right now, the boards are in the shop/garage, stickered and are about 3/8” shy of the desired 1 1/2” thickness. Would it be better to:

1. Joint and plane them down to the 1 1/2” and build the door now and move it inside?

2. Move the boards inside and build the door closer to desired time?

3. Hell, there are so many options, I’m open to suggestions. 

Thanks

Again, this will be an interior dood. 

Edited by Coop

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...