Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Coop

Bedroom Door

Recommended Posts

I would probably take it down some then sticker again for four or five days.  Then do your final thickness and start construction.   Once you are down to final thickness if the parts are going to set for a day or so with out being assembled just stack then or lay them flat, don't sticker them and don't leave them on any cast iron surfaces.  Cast iron can be like a sponge and suck moisture out which may cause the wood to still move some AND rust the cast iron... Go ahead, ask me how I know this.😃

  • Like 3

“If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?”  John Wooden

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/31/2020 at 10:27 PM, Coop said:

It will be approx 6-8 weeks before the contractor will need the door. Right now, the boards are in the shop/garage, stickered and are about 3/8” shy of the desired 1 1/2” thickness. Would it be better to:

1. Joint and plane them down to the 1 1/2” and build the door now and move it inside?

2. Move the boards inside and build the door closer to desired time?

3. Hell, there are so many options, I’m open to suggestions. 

Thanks

Again, this will be an interior dood. 

Ken, I think you've gone as far as you can until you have the exact door opening Option #2 is in my opinion is the way to go.  You still have plenty of time. Don't do any profiles or anything else until you know exactly what you are going to build. Right now it's really guesswork. Don't guess, get it right the first time.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, that’s the way I’m leaning. I’ll just practice on cutting mortises right now. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’m still taking notes. The bottom rail will be 8”, the top 5” and the center rails will be 3”. Is there and advantage to using double mortise and tenons on the top and bottom rails? As a refresher, the stiles will be 5” wide. And from the looks of practice cuts, I can get a good solid 1 1/2” deep mortise from my new 1/2” bit. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can see where two tenons side by side would give more glue area but I don’t know if two, end to end would have an advantage. I think I will just go with one large one.

Bryan, I kind of decided against just one large panel as I think that the center rails will give me a better chance of the door not twisting or racking. Not really sure that is accurate as I don’t find any evidence to substantiate it. In fact, the more mortises and tenons I add, probably increases the chance that I will cut a mortise not square which will increase my chance of twisting it. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...